Komi to the Rescue

After calling ahead for a table at Hank's and then being told when we got there that we must have made that phone call up, we sadly dragged our feet down 17th Street last night knowing we'd never get into Komi and facing the grim prospect that is the rest of the block.

"It never hurts to ask," said my friend as she walked into Komi while we waited outside. And miraculously enough, thanks to flaky reservation no-shows, we got a table and Komi saved the evening.

The warm figs stuffed with mascarpone served before the meal are reason enough to run to the phone and make a reservation. Sprinkled with salt and drizzled with oil, they're a perfect example of why salt and sugar work so well together. The speck wrapped white tuna could make you think you're eating pork, and the warm farro salad beneath it blew me away. How can something so simple looking taste so complexly good? The nubbly grains mixed with pine nuts and something sweet (currants maybe?) for a dish I'd love to recreate at home. Me thinks I might need the recipe...

Also fabulous was the tender suckling pig, served with an autumnal mix of tart apples, brussel sprouts, polenta and applewood bacon. And don't leave without ordering the honey-coated doughnuts, a nod to Greek loukoumades and chef Johnny Monis' heritage. The puffed dough is served alongside a bowl of airy chocolate mousse and cream.

If you haven't been to Komi, you're missing out on one the city's gems. Run, don't walk, I say...